Wind Generator part1

Wind Generator 

There are no limits to what you can do with wind power. It’s abundant, clean, cheap, and easy to harness. We designed this Chispito Wind Generator (that’s Spanish for “little spark”) for fast and easy construction. Most of the tools and materials you need to build it can be found in your local hardware shop or junk pile. We recommend that you search your local dump or junkyards for the pieces required. Or, if you live in a city, search http://www.freecycle.org for salvaged parts, and see if you can install one on your roof.
We believe that anyone can be in control of where his or her electricity comes from, and there is nothing more rewarding and empowering than making a wind-powered generator from scrap materials. Remember: puro yonke (pure junk) is best!

Tools

• Ammeter
• Compass
• Crescent wrench
• Drill , with drill bits
• Flathead screwdriver
• Jigsaw
• Level
• Marker
• Metal punch or awl
• Pipe wrench
• Protractor
• Ropes
• Shovel
• Tape
• Tape measure 
• Thread-tapping set
• Vise and/or clamp
• Wheelbarrow
• Wire strippers 

Relevant Parts

• Treadmill motor , 260 volts DC, 5 amps, with a 6" threaded flywheel
• Bridge rectifier , 30-50A, with center hole mount
• Copper wire , #8 or larger, red and black, both stranded Enough length for both a red and black piece to run from the top of the tower, down through length of pole, to batteries. We recommend at least #8 wire, but if your tower will be sited a long distance away from your batteries, you may need a heavier gauge.

Relevant Parts (continued)

• Spade connectors (4) , for wires for bridge rectifier
• Heat-shrink tubing or electrical tape
• Battery bank We recommend deep-cycle lead-acid storage batteries, and a total battery bank capacity of at least 200 amp-hours.
• Regulator or charge controller
• Fuse
• PVC pipe (2' length) , 8", Schedule 80 If PVC is UV-resistant, you will not need to paint it.
• Bolts (6) , 1/4 " #20, 3/4" long
• Washers (9) , #20
• Lock washers (6)
• Hose clamp
• Sheet metal
• Mounting screws (9) , with lock washers
• Metal tubing (36") , 1" square or 1" angle iron
• Floor flange pipe fitting , 2"
• Pipe nipple , 2" at least 4" long, steel
• Mounting screw (2)
• Hose clamps (2) , #72
• Steel pipe , 10'-30' length of 1-1/2", threaded at both ends
• Pipe nipple (2) , 2' x 1 ", steel
• Pipe nipple , 6" x 1 ", steel
• Pipe elbows (2) , 1/4", 90°, steel 2
• Pipe T , 1/2”, steel
• Quick-mix concrete (3-Feb) , 10 lb. bags
• Sheet metal screws (4) , 3/4" #10
• Guy wire , galvanized steel with a working load of 200 pounds
• U-bolt , 1/2”
• Stakes (4)
• Turnbuckles (4)

• View:
• Single page

• Formats:
• PDF
• XML
• Embed

• 
  

  Step 1 — Overview

• Here is an illustration listing all the components of the wind generator that we'll be building.
  
• For the motor, you may use any other simple, permanent-magnet DC motor that returns at least 1V for every 25 rpm and can handle upwards of 10 amps. Our treadmill motor is rated at 5A, no load, and we’ve found that the coils can withstand 15A going through them without heating up.
  

  Step 2 — Cut the blades.

• Place the 24” length of PVC pipe and square tubing (or other straight edge) side by side on a flat surface. Push the pipe tight against the tubing and mark the line along the length of the tube. This is Line A.
  
• Starting from Line A, draw parallel lines at 75-degree intervals along the length of the pipe. You should have a total of five lines on your pipe as shown in figure. Note that one strip will have an arc width of only 60 degrees. That’s OK.
  
• Use a jigsaw to cut along the lines, splitting the tube into five strips. Four will be wider than the fifth (60°) strip. Set the 60° strip aside for now.
  

  Step 3

• Place the four 75° strips concave-side-down. For each one, make a mark 20% of the width of the strip from one corner along the diagonally opposite side as shown.
  
• Mark a diagonal line between the two marks you just made on each piece, and use the jigsaw to cut along these lines. You should wind up with eight identically shaped trapezoidal blades. You can trim a ninth blade out of the 60° strip left over. You now have enough blades for three generators, or plenty of spares for one generator.
  

  Step 4

• Now you are going to cut one corner from each blade.
  
• First, measure the width of the blade (if you are using an 8” diameter PVC pipe as your stock, it should be about 5.75” wide). Call this value W.
  
• Then make a mark along the diagonal edge of the blade, a distance of W/2 from the wide end (3” is good enough if you are using 8” PVC).
  
• Make another mark on the wide end of the blade at 15% of W from the long straight edge (1” with 8” PVC).
  
• Connect these two marks and cut along the line. Removing this corner prevents the blades from interfering with each other’s wind.
  
• The blades should look like the ones shown in the figure. Pick the three best ones of the batch.
  

  Step 5 — Cut the tail.

• You can make the tail any shape you want, as long as the end result is stiff rather than floppy. The exact dimensions of the tail are not important, but you’ll want to use about one square foot of lightweight material, preferably metal.
  
• Using the 5/32” drill bit, drill two or three holes, spaced evenly, in the front end of the tail.
  
• Then place the tail on one end of the square tubing, noting that it will attach to what will become either the right or left side of the tubing, as the generator sits upright.
  
• Mark the tubing through the tail holes.
  
• Drill holes in the square tubing at the marks you just made.
  
• Attach the tail to the tube with sheet metal screws. (Or you can do this later, so it doesn’t get in the way.)
  

  Step 6 — Attach the 3 blades.

• For each blade, mark two holes along the long, right-angle side of the blade (as opposed to the long diagonal side), at the wide end, next to the cut-off corner. The first hole should be 2” from the long side and “ from the end, and the second hole should be 2” from the straight edge and 1“ from the end.
  
• Using the 1/4“ drill bit, drill these six holes for the three blades.
  

  Step 7

• Detach the hub from the motor shaft. With our motor, we removed the hub by holding the end of the shaft firmly with pliers and turning the hub clockwise. This hub unscrews clockwise, counter to the usual direction, which is why the blades turn counterclockwise.
  
• Using a compass and protractor, make a template of the hub on a piece of paper. Then mark three holes, each of which is 2 3/8” from the center of the circle, 120 degrees apart, equidistant from each other.
  
• Place this template over the hub and use a metal punch or awl to punch a starter hole through the paper and onto the hub at each hole.
  
• Drill the holes with the 7/32" drill bit, then tap them with the 1/4“ tap.
  

  Step 8

• Attach the blades to the hub using 1/4“ bolts, running them through the holes closest to the ends of the blades. At this point, the three outer holes on the hub have not been drilled.

fun labs : www.fun-labs.co.cc 

 

NEXT PART